Princess, Cushion, Radiant or Asscher? The Square Diamond Shapes Compared
Four square and rectangular shapes, four very different personalities. How princess, cushion, radiant and Asscher diamonds differ, and how to choose between them.
If you love a square or rectangular look, four shapes dominate: princess, cushion, radiant and Asscher. They look similar in a thumbnail and very different on the hand. Here is how they compare.
Princess
A square brilliant with sharp, pointed corners. Crisp, modern and very sparkly. Its corners are its weak point, so choose V-prongs or protected corners.
Cushion
A square or rectangle with rounded corners, like a pillow. Romantic and vintage-inspired. Some cushions show a "crushed ice" sparkle, others larger, chunkier flashes; look at a video to see which you prefer.
Radiant
A rectangle or square with cropped corners and brilliant faceting. It combines the clean outline of an emerald cut with the sparkle of a round. Radiants hide inclusions well and are durable.
Asscher
A square step cut with cropped corners, created in the early 1900s. Its concentric steps create a hall-of-mirrors effect. It shows colour and clarity more, so choose higher grades.
How to choose
- Maximum sparkle: radiant or princess.
- Soft and romantic: cushion.
- Art Deco elegance: Asscher (with higher clarity).
- Durability: cushion or radiant, with no sharp corners.
Which looks biggest?
Square shapes carry more of their weight in their depth and corners than a round, so a one-carat square stone measures less edge to edge than a one-carat round (about 6.4 mm). Typical face-up sizes for a well-cut one-carat stone:
| Shape | Approximate size at 1 ct |
|---|---|
| Princess | About 5.5 × 5.5 mm |
| Square cushion | About 5.5–5.8 mm |
| Rectangular radiant | About 6.5 × 5.0 mm |
| Asscher | About 5.5 × 5.5 mm |
Sizes vary with proportions, so compare the measurements on each grading report. Corners add visual area, which is why a square stone does not look as small as its width suggests.
Setting square shapes
- Princess: V-prongs on all four corners, or set "on point" as a diamond-shaped kite.
- Cushion: four claws or double claws; a halo makes it look larger and rounder.
- Radiant: four prongs on the cropped corners, which are already protected.
- Asscher: four prongs or a bezel, often with Art Deco milgrain detail.
Elongated versions
Each square shape has a rectangular cousin. Elongated cushions and rectangular radiants look longer on the finger and make the stone appear bigger. The emerald cut is the rectangular relative of the Asscher, with the same hall-of-mirrors steps.
Princess and square shapes
Which is more sparkly, cushion or radiant?
Radiants are generally the more brilliant; cushions vary from soft to very sparkly depending on the cut.
Are princess cut diamonds fragile?
Their sharp corners can chip if knocked; a protective setting solves this.
What clarity do I need for an Asscher cut?
VS1 or better is a safe choice, because step cuts show inclusions more.
What is an elongated cushion?
A rectangular cushion cut, usually with a length-to-width ratio of about 1.15 or more. It looks longer and slimmer on the finger.
Can a princess cut be set on point?
Yes. Turned 45 degrees in a "kite" setting, it looks like a diamond shape and appears larger.
